Chanonry Lighthouse, Fortrose, The Black Isle
Never has a name misled folk so much. People who visit the Black Isle for the first time are surprised at this green and very fertile peninsular. A Peninsular is what it is, above Inverness and stretching out to the North Sea between the Cromarty Firth and the Moray Firth. We have visited many times and whilst we have always enjoyed good weather we do know that the area can be swept by gales and sever weather.
Those of you who live in the UK will be familiar with the Shipping Forecast a broadcast that is intended to warn shipping of bad weather….a regular name that does seem to crop up regularly is Cromarty Firth….usually with the warning of Gale Force winds.
But those of you who follow my Blog will know I regularly feature post on a Wednesday of ‘My Favourite Places’….. and the Village of Cromarty is, and has been, one of those at the very top of my list…
Cromarty, the Village and Harbour
Cromarty is at the very tip of the Black Isle. Not sure why I love this spot so much, maybe it is because today it is relatively isolated and quiet. Yet at the same time it has enough character and people to make it interesting to explore. There is a great little Museum in the Old Court House but to be frank I find the whole village to be a living museum. Of course like so many Scottish coastal villages Cromarty has seen better times. Fishing (herring mainly) was one industry that has long gone. Local grown Hemp was another, very successful weaving and rope making was a key employer in the town. During WW1 Cromarty and the Firth became an important Naval Base. Today the Firth is home to Oil and Gas Platforms, construction and Repair. Despite all the changes Cromarty is a magnet for me…
The surroundings of Rosemarkie appear much softer. Green grass covered sand dunes, pebble washed sand beaches and a small village welcome visitors…
The Bay offers great views over the Moray Firth and a magnet for walkers and Sea Angles and the views change with the tide and the Scottish weather..
It is though the Light House at Chanonry Point that is the biggest draw.
Chanonry Point is a Dolphin Watch Observation Station….the narrow gap at the point between Chanonry and Fort George on the opposite side of the Moray Firth creates narrow gap for the tides and river waters to fight over. Seemingly ideal for Dolphins who love to play and catch their food. Everyday at any time there are keen folk with binoculars and long lens poised for the display. Being very honest I have to confess we didn’t even catch a glimpse of a fin….. though we have on past visits.
At the point there is also an small monument and plaque that leaves many a visitor with more questions than answers…. the monument marks the spot where someone met their grizzly end.
The Brahan Seer
Truth is often stranger than fiction or so they say. But here we have a story that many believe over the years as being true…. yet disputed by others who have different interpretations of events, but even those leave more questions un-answered.
So let me précis what is both the most accepted and best recorded interpretation.
A Seer is someone who can foresee events in the future. For many they had established a reputation for accuracy. This particular Seer had such a reputation and was employed by the Seaforth Family at their Braham Castle on the edge of the Black Isle. All went well until his prophesies turned rather bleak for the Seaforth Estate. The Braham Seer predicted that this powerful and wealth family would befall several events that would spell misfortune and disaster for the family and the downfall of the Estate. The predictions were specific and started to occur. Tradition had it that the predictions could be halted if the Seer was put to death….. and he was in a most barbaric manner. Placed in a spiked barrel of boiling tar and set alight. Chanonry Point was where the execution took place. In theory this was in the 17th century but even that is disputed. But many did and still believe that the substance of the story is true and it is time that has adapted events.
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What is true that in the Islands there are many who still think that there are those who can indeed see into the future.
Well…that is it….our Scottish trip has come to an end….over 34 days when the weather did its very best to please. I hope you have enjoyed the journey.
(C) David Oakes 2017